Photoshop or any graphics program for that matter has absolutley no bearing on how my images are presented on the web or print, Bazza.

There are only 3 elements as to how my own images have the look/quality they do (including landscapes) and these are

1) the equipment I use (high quality glass and camera body's)
2) knowing how to use it to obtain the best images possible from my equipment, and that includes calibration and adjusting for different shooting conditions
3)some experience

Just to try and prove my point about photoshop not being required for pp (or any graphics program at all, for that matter) here are a few snaps taken today at Lochwinnoch which were only used in my RAW coversion prog (Canon DPP)

1)

2)

3)


Yes, I have PS but I certainly would not buy it just to convert, resize images etc (I have the trial).
Photoshop has its uses for processing astro images and for graphic design /artists and, of course, photo manipulation but for photographers like myself who prefer to capture and produce images and not alter them, then an editing suite like ps is of no use and a waste of money.

I have a motto, "if you can't do it in camera, then it's not worth doing at all"

Hi Gordon, hope you got some nice images from Skye.

My closest focussing distance is 3.5metre (I think I incorrectly said 2.5 before) so anything beyond 11ft.

Can you post some 100% crops of your soft images with shooting info too
and as well as exif info can you also tell me which focus point or points used and focus mode, e.g centre point/all points, one shot focus, AI servo, AI focus.

Try a simple focus test first to make sure your lens is sharp. You will need to use a tripod and activate mirror lockup in your custom functions and use timer mode or remote control. Set your cam to "one shot focus" and use the centre focus point only, your subject will have to be a static object have a flat surface, also, much better to do in doors if possible. Try a printout of some text pinned to a wall at 400mm (use f8 and ISO100 through out the test) take a few shots with these settings and then check the AF point area on Canon DPP is sharp. Do the same @ 100mm too. If you don't get acceptable results you may have to try calibrate your lens which will be a little tricky as it's a zoom lens.

DJ Thanx for the reply mate I will get on to it and get back to you once again Thank you...

Gordon

comment in wrong thread and deleted

Hi Grant here is a few bird shots
1
Camera Model Canon EOS 7D
Tv( Shutter Speed ) 1/250
Av( Aperture Value ) 5.6
ISO Speed 3200


2
Camera Model Canon EOS 7D
Tv( Shutter Speed ) 1/500
Av( Aperture Value ) 8.0
ISO Speed 3200


3
Camera Model Canon EOS 7D
Tv( Shutter Speed ) 1/800
Av( Aperture Value ) 6.3
ISO Speed 200


4
Camera Model Canon EOS 7D
Tv( Shutter Speed ) 1/800
Av( Aperture Value ) 5.6
ISO Speed 500


5
Camera Model Canon EOS 7D
Tv( Shutter Speed ) 1/800
Av( Aperture Value ) 5.6
ISO Speed 100


6
Camera Model Canon EOS 7D
Tv( Shutter Speed ) 1/800
Av( Aperture Value ) 6.3
ISO Speed 500


These were all centre point focus and 1 shot auto focus
hope this is of help to you Grant
thanks in advance Gordon

Hi Gordon. Looking at your Starling shot I don't think you need to be worried about your lens not being sharp. I think the problem with some of the soft shots is just camera and subject movement and just missing focus. Change the one shot mode to AI focus and stick with shutter priority as you have done on some of these shots, @ 1/800 (although you could probably reduce this a little if you have an IS lens) and see how you get on.

Also, use continuous drive mode "H" if you have not done so yet. Thjis will allow you to fire off a few quick shots and allow you a better chance of getting more frames in focus. But don't allow yourself to use it like a machine gun or you will fill your memory card in no time at all with very similar shots. I use it like a machine gun only for birds I'm really interested in and rarely see, or when they are in flight.

You could also set up some custom functions for different shooting modes, eg for flight shots you could have AI servo, shutter speed 1/800, Auto ISO etc etc on C2 then set up C1 for non flight portrait type shots.

You might want to disable noise reduction completley if you are shooting in RAW mode, as I do. You can always apply it later in Canon DPP for any high ISO images that might need some.

Experiment with your cams settings as well and you will discover what settings suits your own style of shooting best

Thanx for taking the time to reply I will use the info and try again.

Thanx again Goggs....