thank you all

sussed white balance and was having a mess about in the office where the light is rubbish and the pics have come ou tlovely and clear

will be doing that tonight - set on 'p' i think now.... iso 800.... but will play about with that....

now i know how too theres no stopping me

Steve

Even in shutter priority the aperture can still be set either in auto or manual mode, at least on the D300.

Bazza

Cheers Bazza. I know very little about the way Nikons work. Now Canons..........

Suze, How'd it go. Good I hope

Steve

Suze

here's a short advert for monopods that demonstrates how useful they are. Mine goes most places with me. I have had my Manfrotto monopod for 15 years and it is still going strong



Steve

I want one

garbage tbh steve!

the shots wre blurry (all 100 n odd)!, the camera was too heavy for me and i had a mega bad back after (horse ridin accident) my own fault i shouldnt have been standing there so long!!!

it was indoor, no stablilty within the shots - the lighting wouldnt have been as bad but the shutter speed was very low and wasnt 100% on how to change this..... my bad i didnt read the book

ordered a monopod last night..... thanks

so hopefullly better non-shaky shots and no bad backs

Monopods are useful - but you'll still get a certain amount of shakiness - learning how to change your shutter speed is going to be your way forward.

Learning the controls of your camera are essential and I think Suze will sit down with the manual and learn how to manipulate the aperture and shutter controls but there are circumstances where it is impossible to get the shutter speed up to a high enough value to combat camera shake. That is where one needs support. In mid winter, overcast weather a 300mm lens and one will struggle to get a fast enough shutter speed to stop action or combat camera shake.

In the conditions I mentioned the EV value would be about ev12.
This would equate to the settings highlighted in red. therefore if the lens in use has a max aperture of f5.6 the fastest shutter speed you could use for correct exposure at ISO 100 would be 1/125 sec. To slow to prevent camera shake with 300mm lens. One would have to increase the ISO to 400 which would enable one to increase the shutter speed to 1/500 sec which is usable hand held.

Now consider that an artificially lit sports hall will have an EV value of ev8 or 9. This means one would have to up the ISO to 3200 to be able to hand hold a camera fitted with a 300mm lens. Unacceptable noise would show at these ISO levels.

So support is essential in these circumstances. Even with support one will have problems freezing action under these light conditions and panning would be the only answer. With the camera on a monopod it is easier to pan as the up and down movement is eliminated and it is just the lateral movement that has to be controlled.

Now,, have you tried the trick with a length of string attached to the camera with a loop in the other end of the string to put your foot through....... That's for another day
f-number
1.0....... 1.4..... 2.0 ......2.8 ...4.0 ...5.6 ...8.0 ..11 ..16 ...22 .32 .45 .64
1/4000 1/2000 1/1000 1/500 1/250 1/125 1/60 1/30 1/15 1/8 1/4 1/2 1sec

Steve

thanks steve


exactly what im doing today - reading my book!! bought ad60 specific book from pc world have scanned it but need to sit down and learn

just a shame its indoors in winter as outdoors in summer i woudlnt have a problem as i take agility pics of my dogs in the garden and they come out fine .....

so the combination of the shakes and poor lighting i think didnt help... lol