Advice

I keep trying to get action shots on my D60 so turn dial to sports but when I press button to take pic seems delayed and some are blurry
This pic was taking on auto

Four things to take into consideration with action shots

1 panning= following the moving subject so is sharp and background blurred
2 stationary = background in focus and subject blurred
3 camera shake
4 distance of moving subject to camera lens

Ok action shots are best with "S" shutter priority for setting shutter speed and allows aperture to adjust accordingly.

In that photo I would hazard a guess first the shutter wasn't set to a fast enough speed and panning was used as the method of shot, second the subject was too close to the lens for "freezing" the subject.

I would suggest practising the "S" settings and get used to distance versus subject speed. the further away the subject the easier to "freeze " the subject.

One method to get some idea would be to tie something large on a string and suspend it from a tree branch, set the object swinging. Then you can try out distance verus shutter speed to get the subject in sharp focus, crude method but gives an idea of what you need to do and the camera settings.

Ok now for the tech side and looking at the exif files on that photo

Your shutter speed was only 1/30sec far too slow for that kind of picture, needs to be at around 1/1000 at least that close if not faster and I don't think even then it would work I would have gone up much higher around 1/4000 sec for that distance and that in bright light, and still kept fingers crossed.

(Checking shutter speed on your camera goes to 1/4000sec and ISO up to 1600 )

ISO at 500 would need increasing bringing the "noise" problem into the equation, but let more light in which you would need for faster shutter speed in those conditions

Aperture F4.8 - possibly open to f2.8 would be better, subject to lens used
at a focal length of only 32mm far too short for this kind of shot so distance would be a major contributor to the issue you raised.

Shutter speed for still photos to avoid camera shake would be around a minimum of 1/60sec hand held.

If the subject on the move was taken from a greater distance and a closer picture wanted , cropping in editing might provide a solution.


Hope this may give some idea to the problem

bazza

Great description Bazza

I found using the 'sports' setting isn't much use unless it's really bright.

As Bazza says - use your shutter speed setting and crank it up.

If you need to go so fast that your pictures are dark - up your ISO to make your sensor more sensitive to light.

Remember your flash can help too if it suits.

As Phil says flash could possibly help but using flash limits the shutter speed usually down to around 1/250sec or there abouts. Then you have to take into consideration any highly reflective surfaces that may be in the background.

bazza

How do I change shutter speed,
you guys are stars

Did you have the flash up?

Indoors you generally need the flash as usually the lighting is not so good.

Go onto "S" setting on the dial to start with, then turn the thumbwheel (command dial)at the back. the shutter speed should be displayed in the viewfinder and also information display.

That should do the trick is my guess, but not owning that model I apologise if I am wrong

Bazza

Perhaps the easiest thing is for somebody to post a 'frozen' action picture and add what shutter speed / aperture / ISO it was taken at. As long as it's nothing silly like a frozen bullet LOL you should be able to replicate the settings on your camera as a starting point.

Just a thought...my view on this would be that a slower shutter speed than an action stopping 1/1000 could work on this picture so long as the panning technique was better. The subject matter, the child, isn't totally a blur even at 1/30 and it appears a partial panning technique has taken place. I would suggest a shutter speed of 1/125 combined with panning may actually freeze the child but maintain a partially blurred background re-enforcing the effect of speed and the child at play. It may also reduce the need to have more noise in the picture as the ISO can be set lower. At 1/1000 it could be difficult to attain such a speed indoors with good DoF and everything just look frozen.

Using a flash may also create a speed effect with panning but takes some experimentation. Have a slower shutter speed, panning the main subject and the flash firing may freeze the subject but show a blurred panned background.

Of course I don't profess to be 'right'! Photography is about experimention and creating the effect you want!

As I am new to these forums, how did you get the Exif information on the picture Bazza? Can't see an obvious way to get it?

Edit: No, sorry, sorted...save it and the original exif information if available becomes visible!

BC

if you download from and save

http://www.opanda.com/en/iexif/download.htm

All you have to do is right click over picture and then right or left click on view exif in the dropdown list and it gives the details of the picture. that is if it hasn't been removed by the photographer first,

There is no need to save the picture.

As regards to your possible answer to KC,s problem, the more thoughts and ideas put foreward can only lead to the chances of KC achieving a better photo. We can only make suggestions on how we would approach the solution.
At the end of the day its getting to know your camera and trial/error/practise, this is where the experience is gained, you wouldn't have liked to see my first efforts they were even worse.

Bazza