 Senior Member
 |
Join Date: May 2011
Location: UK
Posts: 3,053
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by Phil
Minimum apertures have uses - imagine trying to take a longish shutter speed in fairly bright light. If you didn't have a neutral density filter to reduce the amount of light entering the lens the only way is to reduce the aperture sometimes to tiny sizes.
 Senior Member
|
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: 3rd planet on the left
Posts: 2,418
|
well it would be better than f1.8.........probabably still need a ND filter depending on how bright .
you will have to experiment like we all have to, set your camera to f32 100 iso
on aperture priority ,on a tripod if its quicker than say 10 seconds get a filter
then try the same settings and hopefully you will get around 30 seconds which would be cool for what you want to do.
you will have to experiment like we all have to, set your camera to f32 100 iso
on aperture priority ,on a tripod if its quicker than say 10 seconds get a filter
then try the same settings and hopefully you will get around 30 seconds which would be cool for what you want to do.
 Fondly Remembered
|
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Perthshire Scotland
Posts: 8,168
 |
Quote:
Originally Posted by Skyline
So a sunny day and you want to get the dreamy effect of a river/waterfall putting it at f30 may help. Have I got that right?
If you want a long exposure then (without filters) small apertures are the way you would limit light to achieve this.
On a dull day you might not have to use your smallest aperture but on a bright day you may have to go to your minimum.
Using small apertures will result in a greater depth of focus so if you want shallower dof with long exposures you would use wider apertures (or optimum apertures) and limit the amount of light with a filter.
|
Kit 1 Canon 1D Mark 3 Canon EF 17-40mm f/4 L USM Canon EF 24-105mm f/4 L IS USM Canon EF 100-400mm f/4.5-5.6 L IS USM Canon EF 50mm f/1.8 II |
Kit 2 1D2 & 40D |
|
Senior Member
|
Join Date: May 2011
Location: UK
Posts: 3,053
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by Cakey
well it would be better than f1.8.........probabably still need a ND filter depending on how bright .
you will have to experiment like we all have to, set your camera to f32 100 iso
on aperture priority ,on a tripod if its quicker than say 10 seconds get a filter
then try the same settings and hopefully you will get around 30 seconds which would be cool for what you want to do.
you will have to experiment like we all have to, set your camera to f32 100 iso
on aperture priority ,on a tripod if its quicker than say 10 seconds get a filter
then try the same settings and hopefully you will get around 30 seconds which would be cool for what you want to do.
|
Senior Member
|
Join Date: May 2011
Location: UK
Posts: 3,053
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by Phil
Yes in theory.
If you want a long exposure then (without filters) small apertures are the way you would limit light to achieve this.
On a dull day you might not have to use your smallest aperture but on a bright day you may have to go to your minimum.
Using small apertures will result in a greater depth of focus so if you want shallower dof with long exposures you would use wider apertures (or optimum apertures) and limit the amount of light with a filter.
If you want a long exposure then (without filters) small apertures are the way you would limit light to achieve this.
On a dull day you might not have to use your smallest aperture but on a bright day you may have to go to your minimum.
Using small apertures will result in a greater depth of focus so if you want shallower dof with long exposures you would use wider apertures (or optimum apertures) and limit the amount of light with a filter.
Feels like I need a science degree in this sometimes
One thing that still tricks me every time time is f number down is up and up is down.
|
Senior Member
|
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: 3rd planet on the left
Posts: 2,418
|
|
Fondly Remembered
|
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Perthshire Scotland
Posts: 8,168
|
The only thing you really need to know is how (and why) you get a correct exposure and what is the key requirement (aperture or shutter speed) for your desired effect.
Exposure is determined by how much light enters the camera as the picture is taken and this is governed by two things (forget ISO for now which is the 3rd) shutter speed and aperture setting.
A large aperture requires a fast shutter speed to allow enough light to correctly expose and likewise a small aperture requires a slower shutter speed to allow the same amount of light in to correctly expose.
The key is knowing what is most important.
If a slow shutter speed is key - set a slow shutter speed & accept small apertures.
Waterfalls for example
If a fast shutter speed is key - set a fast shutter speed & accept large apertures.
eg - Birds in flight
If a shallow depth of focus is key - set a wide aperture & accept fast shutter speed.
eg - Portrait
If a deep depth of focus is key - set a small aperture & accept slower shutter speeds.
eg - Landscape (use a tripod if it's too slow)
It's all about you deciding what the important setting is for a given shot and understanding why the other setting (set by you or the camrea is therefore needed) to gain the correct exposure.
PS
When these two variables fall short of allowing that correct exposure you have 2 further means of taking control.
The first is your ISO setting (increasing light collection) - by increasing the ISO you can either retain faster shutter speeds at a given aperture or retain smaller apertures at a given shutter speed.
eg - Fast bird in flight already at max aperture but shutter speed is still too slow
The second is a Filter (decreasing light collection) - by adding a Neutral Density filter you can use much slower shutter speeds without over exposing.
eg - long exposures of milky water can takes minutes worth of shutter speed which (even with minimum aperture) would over expose without a filter to block out the light.
Exposure is determined by how much light enters the camera as the picture is taken and this is governed by two things (forget ISO for now which is the 3rd) shutter speed and aperture setting.
A large aperture requires a fast shutter speed to allow enough light to correctly expose and likewise a small aperture requires a slower shutter speed to allow the same amount of light in to correctly expose.
The key is knowing what is most important.
If a slow shutter speed is key - set a slow shutter speed & accept small apertures.
Waterfalls for example
If a fast shutter speed is key - set a fast shutter speed & accept large apertures.
eg - Birds in flight
If a shallow depth of focus is key - set a wide aperture & accept fast shutter speed.
eg - Portrait
If a deep depth of focus is key - set a small aperture & accept slower shutter speeds.
eg - Landscape (use a tripod if it's too slow)
It's all about you deciding what the important setting is for a given shot and understanding why the other setting (set by you or the camrea is therefore needed) to gain the correct exposure.
PS
When these two variables fall short of allowing that correct exposure you have 2 further means of taking control.
The first is your ISO setting (increasing light collection) - by increasing the ISO you can either retain faster shutter speeds at a given aperture or retain smaller apertures at a given shutter speed.
eg - Fast bird in flight already at max aperture but shutter speed is still too slow
The second is a Filter (decreasing light collection) - by adding a Neutral Density filter you can use much slower shutter speeds without over exposing.
eg - long exposures of milky water can takes minutes worth of shutter speed which (even with minimum aperture) would over expose without a filter to block out the light.
|
Kit 1 Canon 1D Mark 3 Canon EF 17-40mm f/4 L USM Canon EF 24-105mm f/4 L IS USM Canon EF 100-400mm f/4.5-5.6 L IS USM Canon EF 50mm f/1.8 II |
Kit 2 1D2 & 40D |
|
Senior Member
|
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: 3rd planet on the left
Posts: 2,418
|
nice one Phil..............
ages ago I put this up which I think is brilliant for showing everything you said
http://camerasim.com/camera-simulator/
ages ago I put this up which I think is brilliant for showing everything you said
http://camerasim.com/camera-simulator/
|
Senior Member
|
Join Date: May 2011
Location: UK
Posts: 3,053
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by Phil
The only thing you really need to know is how (and why) you get a correct exposure and what is the key requirement (aperture or shutter speed) for your desired effect.
Exposure is determined by how much light enters the camera as the picture is taken and this is governed by two things (forget ISO for now which is the 3rd) shutter speed and aperture setting.
A large aperture requires a fast shutter speed to allow enough light to correctly expose and likewise a small aperture requires a slower shutter speed to allow the same amount of light in to correctly expose.
The key is knowing what is most important.
If a slow shutter speed is key - set a slow shutter speed & accept small apertures.
Waterfalls for example
If a fast shutter speed is key - set a fast shutter speed & accept large apertures.
eg - Birds in flight
If a shallow depth of focus is key - set a wide aperture & accept fast shutter speed.
eg - Portrait
If a deep depth of focus is key - set a small aperture & accept slower shutter speeds.
eg - Landscape (use a tripod if it's too slow)
It's all about you deciding what the important setting is for a given shot and understanding why the other setting (set by you or the camrea is therefore needed) to gain the correct exposure.
PS
When these two variables fall short of allowing that correct exposure you have 2 further means of taking control.
The first is your ISO setting (increasing light collection) - by increasing the ISO you can either retain faster shutter speeds at a given aperture or retain smaller apertures at a given shutter speed.
eg - Fast bird in flight already at max aperture but shutter speed is still too slow
The second is a Filter (decreasing light collection) - by adding a Neutral Density filter you can use much slower shutter speeds without over exposing.
eg - long exposures of milky water can takes minutes worth of shutter speed which (even with minimum aperture) would over expose without a filter to block out the light.
Exposure is determined by how much light enters the camera as the picture is taken and this is governed by two things (forget ISO for now which is the 3rd) shutter speed and aperture setting.
A large aperture requires a fast shutter speed to allow enough light to correctly expose and likewise a small aperture requires a slower shutter speed to allow the same amount of light in to correctly expose.
The key is knowing what is most important.
If a slow shutter speed is key - set a slow shutter speed & accept small apertures.
Waterfalls for example
If a fast shutter speed is key - set a fast shutter speed & accept large apertures.
eg - Birds in flight
If a shallow depth of focus is key - set a wide aperture & accept fast shutter speed.
eg - Portrait
If a deep depth of focus is key - set a small aperture & accept slower shutter speeds.
eg - Landscape (use a tripod if it's too slow)
It's all about you deciding what the important setting is for a given shot and understanding why the other setting (set by you or the camrea is therefore needed) to gain the correct exposure.
PS
When these two variables fall short of allowing that correct exposure you have 2 further means of taking control.
The first is your ISO setting (increasing light collection) - by increasing the ISO you can either retain faster shutter speeds at a given aperture or retain smaller apertures at a given shutter speed.
eg - Fast bird in flight already at max aperture but shutter speed is still too slow
The second is a Filter (decreasing light collection) - by adding a Neutral Density filter you can use much slower shutter speeds without over exposing.
eg - long exposures of milky water can takes minutes worth of shutter speed which (even with minimum aperture) would over expose without a filter to block out the light.
Thank you Phil. I shall bring you an apple tomorrow
Seriously, that was great cheers. I've been playing around with the camera more watching the automatic settings for ap and iso if I was on shutter.
I've also been taking note of that slider in the middle of the screen. The penny has dropped and I've found getting the balance right makes my pictures clearer (most of the time)
Quote:
Originally Posted by Cakey
nice one Phil..............
ages ago I put this up which I think is brilliant for showing everything you said
http://camerasim.com/camera-simulator/
ages ago I put this up which I think is brilliant for showing everything you said
http://camerasim.com/camera-simulator/
|
Senior Member
 |
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Grand Rapids, MI USA
Posts: 375
|
I am so going to try this drop of water thing! I think the highest that I can kick up my ISO is 3200 but have never done it.
|
Kit 1 Cannon 50D |
Kit 2 Cannon 30D Cannon EFS 17-85mm Cannon 28-135mm f/3.5 Cannon EFS 60mm f/2.8 Macro Cannon 85mm f/1.8 Portrait Sigma 70-300mm f/5.6 |