 Senior Member
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Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Portsmouth, Hants, England
Posts: 622
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Phil
Composition is also key. Again I'm no expert but I like to try and have something in the foreground like a rock, a puddle or some grass sticking up. Something that really helps give depth to a picture is having something (wall, hedge, field boundary, line of trees etc) leading 'into' the picture.
Just photographing a random group of trees will rarely produce a good image, irrespective of the sky/colour, unless there is something that the viewer can instantly connect with.
Alan.
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Member
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Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Glasgow, Scotland
Posts: 80
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I'll give my main tip,
i told my student (yeah i have an understudy now :P ) this and it keeps me going right,
DO NOT SHOOT AT EYE LEVEL!!!
that is my main rule, if you shoot it at eye level, it will look similar/exact same to lots of pictures you already see from there.
Get up high and you will have much more distance appear, or get low and have it close.
Don't believe me?? do this then, this is what got me my student i said "do this and if you feel it makes no difference, text me and cancel next week, otherwise See you at 7"
Take 3 photos of anything you really want (it will still work just some won't work very well) (same thing)
1 photo from Eye level,
1 photo from knee hight,
1 photo from higher than your head (stretch your arms or stand on a chair)
then look and you will see a complete difference.
Ok my other point,
ANCHORS!!
make sure to have a foreground anchor or else the scene won't push you in!
for example,
as can be seen in this, its shot from lower than eye level plus the rocks in the foreground give you an anchor and lead you into the photograph and towards the sunset.
whilst
This photo has no Anchor, it still is an ok photograph but a tree or a rock would have made it more impactual.
Hope that helps!
Adam
i told my student (yeah i have an understudy now :P ) this and it keeps me going right,
DO NOT SHOOT AT EYE LEVEL!!!
that is my main rule, if you shoot it at eye level, it will look similar/exact same to lots of pictures you already see from there.
Get up high and you will have much more distance appear, or get low and have it close.
Don't believe me?? do this then, this is what got me my student i said "do this and if you feel it makes no difference, text me and cancel next week, otherwise See you at 7"
Take 3 photos of anything you really want (it will still work just some won't work very well) (same thing)
1 photo from Eye level,
1 photo from knee hight,
1 photo from higher than your head (stretch your arms or stand on a chair)
then look and you will see a complete difference.
Ok my other point,
ANCHORS!!
make sure to have a foreground anchor or else the scene won't push you in!
for example,
as can be seen in this, its shot from lower than eye level plus the rocks in the foreground give you an anchor and lead you into the photograph and towards the sunset.
whilst
This photo has no Anchor, it still is an ok photograph but a tree or a rock would have made it more impactual.
Hope that helps!
Adam
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Kit 1 Canon 30D Canon Efs Macro 60mm f2.8 (1:1) Canon Efs 17- 85mm usm Is f4-5.6 Tamron 70-300mm f4-5.6 telemacro (1:2) |
 Fondly Remembered
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Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Perthshire Scotland
Posts: 8,168
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That last shot of Skye was taken from the Bealach-na-ba road to Applecross wasn't it ???
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Member
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Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Glasgow, Scotland
Posts: 80
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Correct Phil!
good observation!
good observation!
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 Admin Team
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Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: South Wales, UK
Posts: 15,385
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Nice tip Adam, copied it to the tips section 
(feel free to edit it if you think it needs further editing)
(feel free to edit it if you think it needs further editing)
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Member
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Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Glasgow, Scotland
Posts: 80
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will have a quick reskim over it and possibly add some extra photos to make my ramblings clearer.
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Kit 1 Canon 30D Canon Efs Macro 60mm f2.8 (1:1) Canon Efs 17- 85mm usm Is f4-5.6 Tamron 70-300mm f4-5.6 telemacro (1:2) |